Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Jewelry: The New Frontier
Her name is Sophie Breitmeyer and her grandfather was one of the first diamond dealers for De Beers. With a lineage like that, it was only natural that the young English designer would follow a path paved in gold and silver.
She was nominated in 2010 for the Bright Young Gem Award by big-time publications like The Financial Times, The Daily Telegraph and Wallpaper. This past Sunday she showed four brass chokers for the duo of Fyodor Golan who won Fashion Fringe during London Fashion Week, S/S 2012.
These are cult pieces. They are sculptural and articulated in their metallic weave. The chokers for Fyodor Golan have names like Hummingbird, Petal and Ruffle and show a craftsmanship that reflects the artistic soul of the young designer. Her approach is at times very experimental and other times understated.
She is especially experimental in the use and working of the metal, the meticulous attention to detail and the importance given to surfaces, unusual shapes and the influences of other fields like fashion and architecture. Each jewel has always something exotic if minimalist about it in terms of the use of stones in unusual colors, which she picks up during her travels.
Sophie is a new talent to watch due to her openness to new frontiers in jewelry. And jewelry is ever more an important co-protagonist in the world of fashion.