25 Years of London Fashion

1984
The British Fashion Council brings disparate designer exhibitions under one body in the capital, and London Fashion Week is born. The synthesis of talent generates a buzz. Championed by Lynne “Ab Fab” Franks, designers included Betty Jackson and Ghost, but one stood out – John Galliano. “Galliano’s graduate show was stunning – a free spirit,” remembers Joan Burstein of Browns, who snapped up the entire collection for her boutique. Picture: STEPHEN LOCK

1990
A new decade, a new mood. Eighties excess caved in to minimalism, as seen in Rifat Ozbek’s White Collection, a volte face from colourful kaftans to palette-cleansing neutrals. 1992
Alexander McQueen floors editors with his sublime debut. “Here were capelets made out of crows’ feathers, tailcoats with dramatic sihouettes. The designs were radical, disturbing and viscereal at a time when taste meant sleek and minimal,” recalls Harriet Quick, fashion features director of Vogue. “McQueen’s language is life, death, sex, religion – he’s a true great.” Picture: EDDIE MULHOLLAND

1994
Hussein Chalayan bursts onto the scene with his lofty concepts, executed with a precision bordering on the pedantic. His “After Words” collection in 2000, with its wooden table-cum-skirt, sealed his reputation as London’s premier visionary. Picture: JEFF GILBERT

1995
Frenzied scenes ensue as Kate Moss walks in Stella McCartney’s graduate show. Kylie Minogue also takes a spin on Antonio Berardi’s catwalk in a cleavage-revealing red dress. Picture: ANDREW SHAW

1998
“I remember my first 'proper’ women’s show in 1998,” says Sir Paul Smith. “I was so nervous as I had only made presentations in Paris.” Picture: DAVID ROSE

1999
Her first show was called “Daddy, I Want a Pony”, to which the fashion pack chorused, “Luella, we want you!” Her blend of punk and prep wins an instant following with London’s hip, young crowd.

2001
The Prince of Wales presents the Designer of the Year prize to Alexander McQueen at the British Fashion Awards. In his days on Savile Row, the designer had famously scrawled an expletive inside one of the Prince’s jackets.

2002
London plays swapsies with New York so the show dates don’t fall on the first anniversary of 9/11. US Vogue editor Anna Wintour attends to show her gratitude, giving a boost to the city.

2003
Katharine Hamnett, who famously wore a “58% DON’T WANT PERSHING” T-shirt to meet Margaret Thatcher in 1984, returns with “STOP WAR, BLAIR OUT”.

2004
Fashion Fringe launches. The competition nurtures cutting-edge designers with creative direction and funding.

2005
Gareth Pugh finally fills the creative void left by McQueen et al. A flamboyant showman, Pugh’s first show sees latex masks and padded coats sculpted from black PVC.

2006
He opted for neon brights when black was in and did figure-hugging when full-flowing ruled. Christopher Kane’s first collection should have failed; instead, he is hailed a star.

2007
A year crammed with highlights, but Matthew Williamson’s return show from New York stood out for one big reason - Prince’s impromptu solo. “All dignity was abandoned as I, and many others, stood, camera-phones pointed at the legend, dancing and clapping like idiots,” says Jo Elvin, editor of Glamour. Picture: STEPHEN LOCK

2009
Burberry, Matthew Williamson, Jonathan Saunders, Pringle, Clements Ribeiro – this year’s line-up has the BFC clapping its hands with glee but also throwing them up in despair, as it works out how to accommodate all the big names. Nevertheless, it’s a huge coup – and one which will surely bring many memories.

(Daily Telegraph)