Georgina Chapman leapt from ancient China to the lush exoticism of Madame Butterfly this time out, still taking her cues from the Far East yet showing even greater ambition in her craftsmanship. “I wanted to [capture] the real look of Japan, create layers and bits of origami,” Chapman said at her presentation, which opened with an elegant duchesse satin “obi coat,” hand-painted — a first for the designer — in black-and-white leaves.
While origami pleating wound its way into many of the gowns via stiff tulle and crepe overlay, the motif was quite literal on a series of black matte crepe dresses and a brilliant pale pink gown, each bodice piled with white origami flowers (also handmade). Using horsehair to sculpt her signature swirling, curling dresses, Chapman lightened the palette for spring — minty green and violet — and showed her hand at embroidery, splaying draped shoulders and cascading satin skirts with silver crystal leaves. Chapman indulges in fantasy, yes, but her technical skills are clearly real, and the impact was both powerful and mesmerizing.
(WWD)
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