"Going Goth"

was at the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey, last week soaking it all in. This was the site where the sultans displayed decapitated heads on stakes to discourage bad behavior among their subjects. Probably the most famous of these heads was Dracula's (Vlad, the Impaler) which had been preserved in honey. Not a bad piece of ghoulish history to come across to get in the spirit of Halloween.

Probably the closest thing you can get to horror in the fashion world is goth. At its worst, goth is all about death, rot and decay. At its best, goth is erotic even a romantic period style of dress. Typically, goth is all about dark colors-blacked out eyes, whitened skin, black hair and a plethora of body piercings.

Most people think goth fashion came out the post punk scene that rose up out of the United Kingdom in the '80s. In fact, goth origins are ancient and appears to be the result of a combination of influences from random events that occurred over the centuries.

One of the best books I've ever come across on the subject is Gothic: Dark Glamour by Valerie Steele. The stunning coffee table book, first published a year ago, traces goth from its Eastern Germanic tribal roots to modern-day black-clad teenagers and sexually-charged vampire fiction.

Steele, chief curator at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, takes the magnifying glass to haute goth as seen through the eyes of designers John Galliano, Rick Owens and Alexander McQueen. It's a fascinating, visual journey through the aesthetics of the macabre.

Some of you might recall, the original Goths were warmongers who tried to take down the Roman Empire in Istanbul, thousands of years before Dracula lost his head to the sultans. I find it particularly interesting that today's goths have nominated Dracula as their token villain. At least at Topkapi Palace, there's a connection. A column commemorates the Roman victory over the Goths.

In fashion, goth is still one of the most effective ways to communicate rebellion and subculture. It's shocking. Unsettling. The fashion equivalent of a good scare on Halloween. Just the kind of buttons, designers like to push. Take London designer Gareth Pugh's spring 2010 collection, pictured above.
(Luxist)

25 Years of London Fashion

1984
The British Fashion Council brings disparate designer exhibitions under one body in the capital, and London Fashion Week is born. The synthesis of talent generates a buzz. Championed by Lynne “Ab Fab” Franks, designers included Betty Jackson and Ghost, but one stood out – John Galliano. “Galliano’s graduate show was stunning – a free spirit,” remembers Joan Burstein of Browns, who snapped up the entire collection for her boutique. Picture: STEPHEN LOCK

1990
A new decade, a new mood. Eighties excess caved in to minimalism, as seen in Rifat Ozbek’s White Collection, a volte face from colourful kaftans to palette-cleansing neutrals. 1992
Alexander McQueen floors editors with his sublime debut. “Here were capelets made out of crows’ feathers, tailcoats with dramatic sihouettes. The designs were radical, disturbing and viscereal at a time when taste meant sleek and minimal,” recalls Harriet Quick, fashion features director of Vogue. “McQueen’s language is life, death, sex, religion – he’s a true great.” Picture: EDDIE MULHOLLAND

1994
Hussein Chalayan bursts onto the scene with his lofty concepts, executed with a precision bordering on the pedantic. His “After Words” collection in 2000, with its wooden table-cum-skirt, sealed his reputation as London’s premier visionary. Picture: JEFF GILBERT

1995
Frenzied scenes ensue as Kate Moss walks in Stella McCartney’s graduate show. Kylie Minogue also takes a spin on Antonio Berardi’s catwalk in a cleavage-revealing red dress. Picture: ANDREW SHAW

1998
“I remember my first 'proper’ women’s show in 1998,” says Sir Paul Smith. “I was so nervous as I had only made presentations in Paris.” Picture: DAVID ROSE

1999
Her first show was called “Daddy, I Want a Pony”, to which the fashion pack chorused, “Luella, we want you!” Her blend of punk and prep wins an instant following with London’s hip, young crowd.

2001
The Prince of Wales presents the Designer of the Year prize to Alexander McQueen at the British Fashion Awards. In his days on Savile Row, the designer had famously scrawled an expletive inside one of the Prince’s jackets.

2002
London plays swapsies with New York so the show dates don’t fall on the first anniversary of 9/11. US Vogue editor Anna Wintour attends to show her gratitude, giving a boost to the city.

2003
Katharine Hamnett, who famously wore a “58% DON’T WANT PERSHING” T-shirt to meet Margaret Thatcher in 1984, returns with “STOP WAR, BLAIR OUT”.

2004
Fashion Fringe launches. The competition nurtures cutting-edge designers with creative direction and funding.

2005
Gareth Pugh finally fills the creative void left by McQueen et al. A flamboyant showman, Pugh’s first show sees latex masks and padded coats sculpted from black PVC.

2006
He opted for neon brights when black was in and did figure-hugging when full-flowing ruled. Christopher Kane’s first collection should have failed; instead, he is hailed a star.

2007
A year crammed with highlights, but Matthew Williamson’s return show from New York stood out for one big reason - Prince’s impromptu solo. “All dignity was abandoned as I, and many others, stood, camera-phones pointed at the legend, dancing and clapping like idiots,” says Jo Elvin, editor of Glamour. Picture: STEPHEN LOCK

2009
Burberry, Matthew Williamson, Jonathan Saunders, Pringle, Clements Ribeiro – this year’s line-up has the BFC clapping its hands with glee but also throwing them up in despair, as it works out how to accommodate all the big names. Nevertheless, it’s a huge coup – and one which will surely bring many memories.

(Daily Telegraph)

"Shoes.....Going to Extremes"

As I am writing this, I can almost feel my ankles "Crack" when looking at these shoes. I must say though, I do like the Alexander McQueen Pumps. The only word that comes to mind when looking at the Nina Ricci shoes is OUCH!


1. Nina Ricci
2. Nina Ricci
3. Alexander McQueen
4. Gareth Pugh