Frida Giannini’s themes have hopped around the globe in recent years, but this season she brought it home. The designer turned back to Gucci’s heyday in the Seventies—not the groovy polyester Seventies, but the tasteful years portrayed in “The Ice Storm.”
Fine-gauge turtlenecks complemented blazers with envelope pockets. Pants were tapered and inspired by horseback riding, rather than flared for the disco. Folkloric sweaters hung around from last season’s Brazilian jaunt and fit right in.
Camel, navy, brown and red wine hues dominated the palette. Giannini went on a cleaning spree, leaving no ornamentation in her wake except gold for the signature horsebit loafers.
In addition, she revived Gucci’s equestrian foulard prints, its red and green stripe, and for luggage, the diamante pattern that predated the double-G. Although the collection spoke in hushed tones, luxury materials - shearling, beaver, astrakhan, silk velvet and buttery suede - stage-whispered “money.”
One can envision the man wearing these quiet, begging-to-be-touched clothes sipping a glass of wine, seated next to the hi-fi.
Glorious indeed! Gucci's men's collections are always classically modern. Many of the looks remind me of those so popular in the 60's....the slim cut slacks and fitted jackets and of course that "touch of camel." When I look at this collection, I think Steve McQueen.....especially in the movie The Thomas Crown Affair. True Perfection!
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